The
Calabrian region has three major cities: Catanzaro — the capital
city for the region — Cosenza and Reggio di Calabria, the
principal city. Reggio di Calabria is a commercial centre with intense
traffic as it sits directly across Messina in Sicily, on the other side
of the Strait of the same name, that separates Italy from Sicily.
The origins of Reggio di Calabria go back to the 8th century BC, and is
intricately linked to the city of Messina, across the strait in Sicily.
The city's wealth grew mostly because of its geography, as it was the
gateway to Sicily.
Tragically, few of the antique architectural riches of Reggio di Calabria
have survived the massive earthquakes that devastated the Calabrian region
more than a century ago.
Sony
S85
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Today,
the treasure of Reggio di Calabria can be found in its archaeological
museum which houses the two oldest Greek bronze statues known to exist.
Called the Riace Bronzes, the statues date back to the 5th century
BC, and were accidentally discovered by fishermen in the early 1980's,
300 metres (1000 ft) off the coast of Riace, a small town to the
north east along the Ionian Sea. Most likely sent to the bottom in antiquity
when a Greek ship sank, the bronze statues settled in 8 meters (26 ft)
of water. Following a lengthy restoration process in Florence, they were
moved and are now on display at the National Museum in Reggio di Calabria.
Through
the Messina
Strait
Although
short of time, we couldn't leave Calabria without crossing the Messina
Strait to the largest and most heavily populated of
the Mediterranean islands: Sicily.
A short ferry ride — 3 kilometres (1.86 mi) takes us to Messina,
at the eastern tip of Sicily.
Our
arrival into the port city of Messina takes place in complete silence.
It is early afternoon, and it appears that the residents have taken refuge
in the shade, behind their shuttered windows. All the shops are closed,
the streets empty. No wonder: the light is blinding, the sky as blue as
the sea, and the heat, intense.
A bus, loading at a nearby square suddenly looks like salvation. We no
longer want to remain in this deserted part of the city which gives Messina
the appearance of a ghost town.
As
soon as we sit down in the bus, we rediscover the normal Italian hospitality
with the charming and chatty woman collecting the fares.
Our confused expressions quickly draw sympathy and our bus ride becomes
a fascinating guided tour.
Santuario
DI Cristo Re
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All
around the remains of old buildings remind us that Messina is built in
one of Sicily's most active seismic areas. At the beginning of the 20th
century, one earthquake killed more than 60,000 people in a few seconds.
Dominated by Mount Etna (3340 m/10960 sq.ft.), Europe's most active volcano
with a record of 140 eruptions since antiquity, Sicily is a heavily mountainous
island that extends over more than 25,700 Km² (9,922 sq mi.) Vestiges
from the classical Greek period, charming medieval streets, and baroque
piazzas abound.
Sicily
is also the island of the flowering almond trees, celebrated every year
in the town of Agrigente during the first week of February. This is where
some of Italy's best produce is grown, and it is a place of extraordinary
colour.
Barely
getting accustomed to our surroundings, we realize that we only have a
few days left. It is time for us to leave Calabria, and follow the coast
north and get to Rome, and then Florence.
