In an era when thin is in, the chunky Fujifilm Finepix S8000fd is a
bit of an anomaly. Granted, no digital camera packing a monster 18x
optical zoom (27-486mm equivalent) is going to match the runway lines
of an ultracompact purseshooter, but when you hold this 17.8-ounce Fuji
in your hands, you get the impression that svelte wasn't in the vocabulary
of the camera's designers.
The black unit with silver accents is boxy.
It measures 4.4-by-3.1-by-3.1 inches with its zoom fully retracted into
its body. That's fine with me, as I found the snapper easy to hold and,
more important, easy to keep rock steady.
Controls for the camera can be conveniently reached and are logically
organized on the unit's body.
On top of the bytecam, at the end of its hand grip, is a circular dial
with a fob for controlling the unit's zoom lens. The dial's location
and design allow you to securely grasp the camera with three fingers
and comfortably manipulate the zoom with a fourth.
Behind the zoom dial is an ample slider control for toggling the camera
on and off. The design and placement of the slider make it easy to find
and finger, which distinguishes this Fuji offering from many cameras
where you have to hunt for the power button as if it were an egg on
Easter.
Behind the power slider are two buttons.
One toggles the unit's face detection and red-eye removal technologies.
When face detection is activated, the camera will automatically remove
red-eye from subjects in a shot. The second button toggles the unit's
Dual Image Stabilization feature. It's used to offset camera shake that
can blur pictures.
To the left of the face detection and stabilization buttons is the
mode dial. Here are the modes that can be accessed from the dial.
· Auto. Camera chooses all settings
for the shot, save for F mode. F mode gives you control of image quality,
light sensitivity (ISO) and color. However, only auto ISO settings are
available from F mode when the camera is set to auto.
· Picture Stabilization. Camera
will use a fast shutter speed to offset camera shake. Dual Image Stabilization
also can be used to counter camera shake, but it does that with a combination
of shifting the unit's CCD sensor and using higher ISO settings.
· Natural Light. This mode optimizes
the camera's settings for shooting images in low-light conditions without
a flash.
· Natural Light with Flash. In this
mode, the camera will snap two photos in rapid succession--one with the
flash, one without. The mode can come in handy when shooting a subject
that's backlit.
· SP1, SP2. These settings on the mode dial access the unit's 13
scene modes (see specification section). All settings appear in both modes.
However, the last setting used will be "remembered" in the mode.
So if you're doing some sport and portraiture work, you can can set SP1
to the pre-set for sports and SP2 for portraits. Then you can quickly
move between the modes to use the settings without navigating through
menus.
· Program AE. In this mode, the shutter and aperture settings are
set automatically, but other settings--metering and auto focusing modes,
white balance, continuous shooting and such--can be modified.
· Aperture Priority.
This allows you to choose an aperture for a shot and the camera will choose
the shutter speed. As in Program mode, you can modify a number of other
settings before shooting.
· Shutter Priority. This lets you choose a shutter speed and the
camera will pick the correct aperture.
· Manual. You can choose both shutter
speed and aperture for the shot.
· Shutter Priority. This lets you choose a shutter speed and the
camera will pick the correct aperture.
At either end of the
camera's top are mounts for the strap that's included with the product.
Out of the box, a tether for the lens cap is attached to the left mount.
As a photographer who is always misplacing lens caps, I found the tether
arrangement very thoughtful.
The camera's battery compartment, which
holds four AAs, is in the bottom of the unit, as is a centered tripod
mount.
On the left side of the camera, there's a
speaker and a compartment that houses a plug for an AC adapter (not included)
and a mini USB port for connecting the unit to a computer. An AV/out cable
packaged with the bytecam also plugs into to port and permits the unit
to be connected to a device with RCA connectors. At 11 o'clock from the
speaker is a button for popping up the camera's built-in flash.
On the right side of the unit is a compartment for an xD or
SD memory card.
At the front of the camera is a combination
AF illuminator and self-timer LED, as well as the DSC's lens. The Fujinon
4.86-84.24mm (27-486mm equivalent) 18x zoom extends 2.25 inches from the
unit's body in telephoto mode.
A 2.5-inch LCD is located at the rear of the camera. Above it
is a .24-inch electronic viewfinder. The optics of the viewfinder can
be adjusted by rotating a knob recessed into the left side of the device.
I found the knob difficult to manipulate while holding the viewfinder
to my eye.
The LCD and viewfinder both have resolutions
of 230,000 pixels and coverage areas of 97 percent. However, while the
LCD is sharp and gives you a relatively realistic view of a scene, the
viewfinder has an oversaturated video quality to it. While optical viewfinders
will give a photographer a better view of a shot, the advantage of an
electronic viewfinder is that it can display--as the one in this Fuji
does--all the information that appears on the LCD.
On the right side the viewfinder
is a button for toggling between EVF and the display.
To the right
of the LCD is the camera's arrow dial. The dial can be used to move
left, right, up and down through the system's menus. In shooting mode,
pressing the arrow points gives you quick access to some commonly used
functions. At 12 o'clock, the arrow point can be used to brighten the
screen. At three o'clock, you can page through the unit's various flash
modes. At six o'clock, you can access the self timer. And at nine o'clock,
you can page through the DSC's macro menus. At the center of the dial
is a button for making menu choices and displaying shooting menus on
the LCD.
The arrow dial is surrounded
by four buttons.
There's the "F" button at one o'clock from
the arrow dial. It displays menus for choosing ISO, picture quality
and color settings.
There's the exposure compensation button at five o'clock. In addition
to allowing you to increase or decrease the light in an exposure, it's
also used to display the histogram of a shot, as well as shutter speed
and aperture settings.
There's a button at seven o'clock for backing out of menus and paging
through display views.
And at 11 o'clock, there's a button for entering playback mode, where
you can display shots you've taken on the snapper's LCD.
Although the unit's controls are logically clustered and easily manipulated,
they're not always as intuitive as they might be. For instance, having
two scene settings--SP1 and SP2--is handy, but without reading the camera's
documentation, you might think that the mode spots are a means for accessing
different settings, not a quick way to access a scene mode without scrolling
through menus. Having a separate button for backing out of menus instead
being able to do so from the arrow pad is disconcerting, too. That's
also true for having to use the exposure compensation button for making
changes in shutter speed and aperture.
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